1990 Mortlach Chieftain’s 25 Year Old 46% Abv Speyside

1990 Mortlach Chieftain’s 25 Year Old 46% Abv  Speyside

Colour: Deep gold. 

Nose: Huge mushrooms and resinous woods at first, then the blackest burnt molasses and various Asian sauces, teriyaki and such. It would then display more chestnuts (roasted) and cigars, old polished leather, earthy and rooty umaminess. Which should be pretty Mortlach, even if many Mortlachs nose fruitier and more floral. Big boy, if not a total beast (of Dufftown) yet. Echoes some early batches of the Flora & Fauna. 

Mouth: Bags of leather and tobacco, old walnuts, bitter chocolate, then chestnut honey and many roasted nuts. Bitter caramel, and lastly, even more tobacco, with hints of cinnamon and cracked pepper. 

Finish: Medium, very dry, a lot of black tea too, especially in the aftertaste. Some salty bouillon as well, and indeed umami and more chestnut honey. 

Comments: this is Mortlach as in the books! Spectacular, if a little austere: I like it really a lot, it’s a classic classic (you don’t say!)